El Camino Real Tour Update - November 4, 2005

Nacogdoches through San Augustine to Toledo Bend Reservoir
Got a fairly decent start today, still east on Texas Highway 21, now leaving Nacogdoches behind and heading for the Sabine River which at the Highway 21 crossing, is dammed as Lake Toledo Bend. Highway 21 is not shouldered and busier than usual for the morning. I am concerned about the afternoon traffic after we pass through San Augustine, especially since its Friday and we are heading toward a major recreation area.

We got a great reception at San Augustine Chamber of Commerce from Samye Johnson, who has been my contact and is very active working with the five Chambers from Crockett through Nacogdoches, San Augustine, Pendleton Bridge and Natchitoches on El Camino Real issues. Newsman and photographer Val Sharp recorded our entry. Jack Mathews, artist for the El Camino Real map we have been using was there, as was Jerry and Penny Payne, relatives of Franks wife. Also Duke (“You know, like you call your dog” he laughs), the City Manager.

After gifts of T-shirts and a history book on San Augustine, we were treated to lunch on site and chatted with members of the garden and historic clubs. My wife Clemmie’s father’s family comes from San Augustine so we compared some family names folks might know. Thanks so much, Samye and San Augustine, for your hospitality.

Surprise for awhile on Highway 21 out of San Augustine eastbound in early afternoon. Once we cleared the lunch hour traffic, it became very quiet. At that point, before Milam, it borders another National Forest section, winds very nicely, and was relatively calm. We did still have some logging trucks and saw an number of pickups hauling ATVs, presumably for weekend recreation. The countryside was much more hilly than I expected and reminded me a lot of rural Virginia or Kentucky. We passed through some wonderful scenes of trees, pastures, twisting and hilly road and horses intently regarding us.

Cows look at you as if through a fog. Horses study you very carefully. You can see the intense concentration in their eyes.

Just before the crossroads village of Milam, Texas Highway 103 from Lufkin joins Highway 21 and it became busy again. After Milam, five more miles to the motel, which is a quarter mile from the causeway over Toledo Bend Reservoir (Sabine River) which is the border of Texas and Louisiana. Finally we see the motel sign and I pray “please Lord, just another 100 yards on this road.”

As we turn into the motel parking lot, I can see Louisiana just ahead across the lake. The Super 8 here was flooded from Hurricane Rita. Our rooms have sections of floor near the windows that have not been recarpeted yet. The management apologized but we assure them that after being literally on the highway all day passing road kill and all, this is heaven.

We are done with Highway 21. Hallelujah! A quarter mile more early tomorrow and two miles across the causeway and bridge to Louisiana. We know from our June scouting trip that Louisiana Highway 6 is shouldered the entire 48 miles to Natchitoches. The first 12 miles near the reservoir is actually signed as bike lanes.

Texas Highway 21 needs shoulders if it is to be part of the El Camino Real de los Tejas bicycle tourism route. Even three-foot shoulders would be a complete solution. A first step would be to sign it for bicycles and reduce the speed limit by 10-15mph. I believe the positive economic impact due to tourism would outweigh the inconvenience to traffic. Maybe even prevent a few accidents and save a few lives.

I talked with Iris Harper of the Natchitoches Information Center this afternoon and she will meet us tomorrow afternoon when we hit town. Incidentally, we have been hearing the name pronounced “Na-Ka-DISH” as opposed to the “Na-Ka-TISH” that we have been using. Pretty subtle difference. I’ll ask Iris tomorrow for the authoritative pronunciation.

Look how far we have come! We are ready for the final chapter.

Back to El Camino Real Tour Update Page                   THE DAY'S PHOTOS

Site Updated 11/16/05
If you experience challenges with this page or have any comments, please contact our Web Guy!
Web Design by Disabled, Not Unable